Rob LeBlanc ferries climbers to their next adventure. Photo: Mark Hurst
By Danielle Beaton & Mark Hurst
For those who do not know, Bon Echo Rock, the “Canadian Gibraltar”, is a sheer 100-metre granite face rising from the depths of Lake Mazinaw in Southern Ontario. It was first climbed by a quartet from The Alpine Club of Canada in the Fall of 1956 in a feat that was witnessed by local cottagers who, no doubt, were awed and baffled in equal measure by the spectacle.
From that day to the present, the route these climbers opened, Birthday Ridge, is the traditional first route – a rite of passage – for new Bon Echo climbers. First timers also discover everything that the ACC Toronto Section has to offer: a hut with camping and cooking; a sauna by the lakeshore; boat hop-on, hop-off delivery along the cliff; and a sociable and supportive atmosphere as newbies experience the cliff for the first time.
A long-standing tradition of the Toronto Section is the Bon Echo 101 weekend, when climbers who are new to trad climbing are chaperoned by experienced climbers who introduce them to this beautiful area. This year’s event was held June 2nd and 3rd, with the week’s hut custodian Rob Leblanc teaming up 26 participants with 13 experienced climbers.
As Tanya Gradyuk says, “Climbing at Bon Echo is an adventure right from the beginning, starting at the public dock where you meet the custodian for pickup, then cruise past the impressive cliff face before arriving at the ACC hut to set up camp and get ready for a weekend of trad climbing.”
Josefina Vera put it best after her climbing partner, Nicolas Hormazabal, led his first trad route: “Climbing at Bon Echo was breathtaking, with the cliff rising straight out of the lake, varied routes, and excellent rock quality. We were absolutely stoked! The beautiful setting, quality time with other climbers, and completion of our first trad multi-pitch made it unforgettable. The achievement and the realization that we could safely access such places, thanks to the ACC and their mentors, has created so many new climbing possibilities.”
Of the 120 routes described in the guidebook, more than 30 of them are popular classics, ranging in difficulty from 5.0 to 5.11. Which brings up something that all newbies come to learn no matter what their climbing experience; the route grades here are ever so slightly sandbagged, so take care when looking for something fun and challenging.
Irrespective of whether a route is “5.easy” or “5.hard”, they are all “5.fun”, as Owen O’Neill discovered after his first ever lead on Birthday Ridge was followed by several more. “It felt like climbing into the unknown, hoping – sometimes pleading – that I would find a gear placement within the next 10 feet. Sometimes I was able to, and sometimes, much to my dismay, I had to keep marching upwards, hoping for the best.” He decided that, as rope gun, the ratio of fear-to-stoke was a helpful guide for his decision making.
Having been sport climbing for years, Lisa Knight experienced the 101 as “an adventure summer camp for adults”, forming instant friendships while testing herself on “long routes with sweet traverses and polish-free granite, before returning for swimming, sauna, beers and a campfire back at the hut”.
By the end of the weekend, this year’s set of initiates found that a new world of climbing had been opened for them. Along the way, they also learned to do as their mentors do: use two ropes, wear a helmet, carry lots of gear, and enjoy the winding routes on rock features offering exposure and interesting movement over the same holds used by those first four climbers decades before.
At the end of the weekend, you hop on the boat again for a return trip to the dock. On-route, while admiring the beauty, a thought arises: farewell till next time.
Join us in 2025 for the next Bon Echo 101 weekend…
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Pulling from the 2024 ACC Gazette, these stories are from our club members, in their own words, about an aspect of their section that is special to them.
The Alpine Club of Canada is thrilled to announce the newest addition to its hut network – a new hut at Robson Pass. This hut has been more than two decades in the making and will serve as a gateway to the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and the surrounding area.
We appreciate that the lands known today as Canada are home to the enduring presence of all First Nations and Métis people, and the Inuit and we acknowledge the past, present, and future generations of these Nations who continue to lead us in stewarding this land, as well as honour their knowledge and cultural ties to this place. The Alpine Club of Canada’s head office is located in the traditional lands of Treaty 7, which is comprised of the Stoney Nakoda Nations of Wesley, Chiniki, and Bearspaw; three Nations of the Blackfoot Confederacy: the Piikani, Kainai, and Siksika; the Mountain Cree; and the Tsuu T’ina of the Dene people. This territory is also shared with the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region III. Before the signing of Treaty 7, and prior to the establishment of provincial boundaries, this region was also used by the Ktunaxa and the Maskwacis people.
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