ACC Gazette Section Stories: Edmonton

In 25 local sections across Canada, all year round, members of the ACC climb, ski, hike, go to the gym, clean up crags, build trails, and gather for social events. From St. John's to Vancouver Island to the Yukon, thousand of club outings are run by volunteers each year. Pulling from the 2024 ACC Gazette, these stories are from our club members, in their own words, about an aspect of their section that is special to them.
Luc Raymond (far right) with his dedicated team of volunteer belayers for the competition.

AN OVERNIGHT SUCCESS DECADES IN THE MAKING

EDMONTON RALLIES BEHIND ICE COMP

The Edmonton Section | Gazette | 2024 

A competitor in the lead ice climbing competition.

In 2024, the ACC’s Edmonton Section took what had been a community event at a local artificial ice climbing wall and turned it into one of the premier winter climbing competitions in the world. “YEG ICE” had been held at the Edmonton Ski Club for a few years prior to 2024 and was, in comparison, a small event, run by volunteers, to introduce locals to ice climbing. For 2024, the event was moved to the Ice District at Rogers Place arena to make it bigger, and to include a full-scale, UIAA-sanctioned ice climbing competition.

The first internationally sanctioned event that a city holds is typically smaller, something like a Continental Cup which is a big deal but one that would attract mostly local climbers. But with the UIAA supporting whatever Edmonton wanted to commit to, they decided to put on the World Championship – the final event of the two-year tour and the biggest ice climbing competition in the world.

Community comes together

The idea for a world class ice wall and competition in Edmonton had been imagined in the early 2000s and the 2024 event had been in some level of planning for four or five years. Many of the original planning team, and a huge number of ACC members, climbers, and regular Edmontonians worked with the new team to bring their modern icy vision to reality.

Sanctioning was granted in July of 2023, and funding finalized by late October, which made the timeline to pull the event together crazily compressed. Explore Edmonton, the local DMA, supplied funding to make the event possible and local sponsors and businesses jumped onboard. Climbing gyms donated bolts, wall volumes and other equipment.

More than 250 volunteer shifts in 22 roles were filled, with recruiting and figuring out what all the jobs would be happening simultaneously. Instagram pulled in most of the recruits, including many who wanted to give back after learning to ice climb at previous YEG ICE festivals. Many were ACC members, some were not. Some were signed up through the fence of the dog park next door.

Having climbing walls and good ice is essential and this provided some of the most stressful times. The ice walls were designed and built by professionals, but the engineers were changed three times. The design of the walls continued well into January for a mid-February competition. The weather was too warm for making ice, followed by the temperature dropping to -40. A non-essential water use ban followed a city pump failure. Shifts making ice continued through the nights.

Belayers were trained in the days before the big competition, with team Canada ice climbers acting as guinea pigs for practice. During the comp, volunteer jobs included crowd control, isolation monitors, escorts, medical staff, camera operators, timers, and a behind the wall stick tool poking guy.

Beyond the competition and wall building, volunteers managed the snow biking, firepits, and the family side of the event. Some roles were filled and trained five minutes before they were needed. That the whole thing just worked is a testament to the vision and tenacity of an entire community.

YEG ICE is happening again in February, 2025 and we’re looking forward to another great celebration of winter community and climbing. Look us up at www.climbyeg.com.

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