Few members have had as deep and long-lasting an impact on Canadian climbing and the ACC as Helmut Microys. From the cliffs of Ontario to Canada’s biggest peaks to roles on Safety Commissions at home and internationally, his accomplishments are many and long-lasting.
Below is a personal remembrance of Helmut Microys by his climbing partner Ron Factor, followed by a note about the celebration of life held at Bon Echo this past September.
Much thanks to Paul Geddes, who collected the photos in this article and who authored both the profile on Helmut in the summer 2022 edition of the ACC Gazette (view in the Reading Room) on the occasion of the awarding of his Honorary Membership and his obituary in the 2026 Canadian Alpine Journal.
Helmut Microys: 1934–2025
Wisdom has it that you should never meet your hero; you’ll only be disappointed.
I first climbed with Helmut at Rattlesnake Point in the late 1970s, by then a popular climbing spot west of Toronto. Most climbers top-roped, but Helmut was one of the few climbers who had the skills to lead every pitch. In those days Helmut would carry two slings of gear, one over each shoulder. He would pick up every piece of garbage he spotted, cursing those who would so defile nature.
In the summer of 1979, Helmut and two other friends and I made a trip to Moraine Lake, Alberta. Rather than ascend the treacherous 3-4 Couloir, we took a roundabout route to get to the hut atop the couloir. The scene was straight out of a Woody Allen movie: 6′4″ Helmut strode with ease across scree and glacier while three short Jewish guys scurried behind. It was a great learning experience for all of us. Helmut was patient, understood our various capabilities and led us safely up and down while making it an enjoyable experience.
I went on to attend several ACC climbing camps with Helmut, as well as other climbs we did on our own. When I say “on our own,” it was mostly me trying to keep up. I think I bore some status amongst other climbers by virtue of my role as Helmut’s climbing partner, but in truth it was more a reflection of Helmut’s patience and forbearance than my skill. He understood the people he was climbing with, what they could and could not do, where they might feel uncomfortable, when they needed a rope.
At one GMC, with time on our hands before dinner, we started walking uphill with our Leki poles and a light pack consisting of a water bottle, a fleece, and a rain jacket. I said, “Helmut, maybe we should bring a rope, harness and a few pieces of hardware just in case?” “Naw, we don’t need that, we’re just going to sniff the air.” Slowly we kept plodding along until we sat on a 3,000-metre summit overlooking the camp.
Helmut was a superb climber; his knowledge was a cut above. He had a fundamental understanding of mountains, an uncanny route-finding ability and an elegant climbing style. Watching him was like an evening at the ballet. But what was most distinguishing was the softer side of the experience. He stopped to enjoy nature, “to sniff the air,” the flowers, the fresh air, the views. He often dragged a medium-format Hasselblad camera along, enduring the extra weight to get those brilliant, high-resolution slides he was known for. Over the decades Helmut made many presentations to the Alpine Club and other interested groups, and since he was holding the camera, I ended up in lots of them.
I often stayed with Helmut and Gisele after they moved to Calgary. Preparing dinner was like a mountain assault. With Gisele happily ensconced with a book and a glass in the living room, Helmut directed his sous-chef (moi) to chop whatever he assigned while he prepared the important stuff, including wine selection, tasting, evaluation, acceptance, and ultimate consumption. No half measures for him. Dinner was an experience to be planned, prepared, enjoyed, and shared with others.
Speaking of wine, let me share an experience in the Gunks in New York state. This 100-metre series of cliffs consists mostly of two-pitch climbs. One afternoon, Michael Rosenberger (Helmut’s longtime friend and fellow climber) and Helmut decided that we would do a scenic but not terribly difficult five-pitch traverse. I did my usual following and cleaning the gear on the way up, and at the top, Helmut pulled out a particularly distinguished Burgundy and three crystal wine glasses. As we sipped, I casually asked, “So who’s the idiot who dragged this bottle up here?” Michael and Helmut looked at me and said nothing. I then remembered that my backpack did seem a little heavy.
We did the Canadian Ski Marathon together for a couple of years in the 1980s – 100 km of trails from Lachute, QC, to Ottawa, ON, over two days. Helmut had instructed me on subtleties of the classic cross-country technique, e.g., how to properly “kick,” so that I was able to extract an extra inch or two with each stride. Makes a big difference over 100 kilometres.
As we both got older, we headed to Italy to do some via ferrata climbs. We slept in beds, not tents, had excellent breakfasts, headed out for a climb and made sure we were back by 4:00 pm for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). Our trip planning included dinner selections along with wine pairings.
On every outing Helmut, always an enthusiastic conversationalist, started his discussion about his children. I followed both Rion’s and Robert’s progressions through school and through life. It was clear to me that despite his dedication to his work, his outdoor activities, his love of opera, classical music, fine wine, and fine cuisine, his first love was his family.
Helmut became more than my hero. He was my guide, mentor, and teacher. He took me places I would never have gone on my own: mountain tops, ski trails, rock routes, and sipping Château d’Yquem. But most importantly, he was a good friend over many decades. So yes, I met my hero and wasn’t disappointed. He added a richness to my life that I will remember always. I celebrate all that he had to offer.
by Ron Factor
Helmut Microys celebration at Bon Echo
On September 12, 2026, thirty-three members gathered on the shores of Lake Mazinaw at the ACC Bon Echo Hut to celebrate the life and climbing accomplishments of Helmut Microys. Helmut’s contributions to climbing and to mentoring others on the Bon Echo cliffs are well known throughout the region.
This event coincided with the Toronto Section’s annual autumn Ox Roast, which marks the end of the summer climbing season, a celebration that Helmut often attended. Bryan Thompson of the Toronto Section was again the head chef for this special dinner.
Helmut’s family provided wine for the celebration and the several toasts to Helmut. Event organizer and weekend custodian Calvin Klatt from the Ottawa Section began the remembrance with a summary of Helmut’s contributions to Ontario climbing. Others in attendance recalled their personal memories of Helmut. Calvin read out emails from several people who could not attend in person.
After dinner Calvin read a remembrance to Helmut written by his friend Ron Factor.
The evening celebration ended with another toast to Helmut.
